Enchiladas Suizas
About this Recipe
By: Rachel
On our first date, my husband and I dined at Gracia, Chester Gerl’s wonderful Seattle restaurant specializing in traditional Mexican cuisine. Chef Gerl imports non-GMO heirloom corn from Oaxaca, where it is nixtamalized in-house.

Nixtamalization is the process of cooking corn in an alkaline solution that softens the corn, developing its flavor and aroma while also imparting the corn with calcium and activating the natural amino acids and vitamins found within. Aztecs and Mayans achieved this by boiling kernels with limestone or ash; nowadays, water with pickling lime is typically used. Chef Gerl’s onsite nixtamalization produces fresh masa, the basis for Gracia’s memorable homemade tortillas, tamales, tostadas, and more.
If you have ever eaten a homemade corn tortilla made from fresh masa, you know that it is an unforgettable experience. Your entire mouth explodes with the flavor of corn, a depth of flavor difficult to describe. I can only describe it as the difference between hot, homemade mashed potatoes and dehydrated flakes; between a strong cup of coffee from freshly-ground beans and a cup of instant. Once you have tasted the real thing, you know it.
So when I first tasted the Enchiladas Suizas at Gracia, you will not blame me for forgetting that I had just met the love of my life. All of my attention was focused on the plate before me—the lovingly handmade corn tortillas; the fork-tender, sumptuous chicken; the luscious and creamy tomatillo salsa; the beguilingly stretchy Chihuahua cheese; the crunchy, briny pickled red onions.
I had no time for love—figuring out the secret behind these enchiladas was a serious and far more pressing matter. (By now, my husband is used to playing second fiddle to the dishes with which I become temporarily obsessed. Besides, he was just as focused on his halibut tacos, fried to golden-brown, crispy perfection and nestled in a fresh tortilla stuffed with crunchy red cabbage, chipotle crema, jalapeños, and piquant lime.)
Enchiladas Suizas (Swiss enchiladas, so named for its generous use of dairy) is thought to have originated in 1950, at Mexico City’s Sanborn Café. It is a memorable and decadent dish, and I encourage you both to try your hand at making it at home—as well as trying it at a restaurant like Gracia that makes tortillas daily using its own fresh masa.
Finally, don’t be intimidated by the steps in this recipe. You can save time by using store-bought tortillas or shredded leftover rotisserie chicken; your local Latin American market may sell excellent salsa verde. This dish will be delicious whether you take the weekend to make everything from scratch, or take a few shortcuts for an easy midweek dinner.
Enchiladas Suizas
Ingredients
Shredded chicken
- 2-3 pounds (1-1 ⅓ kilo) skin on, bone-in chicken breasts or thighs
- 3 cups (700mL) water
- 1 onion, quartered
- 3 cloves garlic, smashed
- 1 jalapeño pepper, halved
- 1 teaspoon salt
Pickled onions
- 1 red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 cup (235mL) hot water
- ¼ cup (60mL) white vinegar
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon sugar
Creamy salsa verde
- 2 pounds (1 kilo) tomatillos, husked and washed in hot water
- 1 small white onion, quartered
- ½ jalapeño pepper
- 2 garlic cloves, smashed
- ¼ cup (4g) chopped cilantro
- ½ cup (120g) Mexican crema
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Corn tortillas
- 2 cups (180g) masa harina (I like the Masienda brand)
- 1 ¼ cups (395mL) warm water
- 1 pinch kosher salt
For the enchiladas
- 12 corn tortillas, homemade or store-bought
- Vegetable oil, for softening the tortillas (unless using fresh tortillas)
- 2 cups (250g) Chihuahua cheese, shredded
- ¼ cup (35g) Cotija cheese, crumbled
- 1 cup (75g) shredded iceberg lettuce
- ½ cup (120g) Mexican crema
Step by Step Instructions
Shredded Chicken
- Add all ingredients to a slow-cooker, and cook on low for 8 hours, or until fork-tender.
- Allow the chicken to cool and shred, discarding the skin, bones, and vegetables. Use immediately, or store the chicken in some of the simmering liquid to prevent it from drying out. The remaining braising liquid may be refrigerated or frozen and used for another purpose.
Pickled Onions
- Place the sliced onion in a glass container, and sprinkle with salt and sugar. Add the vinegar, and pour the hot water over the onions. If desired, add whole garlic cloves and/or peppercorns. Serve after 30 minutes, or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Creamy Salsa Verde
Step 1
- In a medium saucepan, boil the tomatillos, onion, jalapeno, and garlic. Simmer for 15-20 minutes until cooked (the bright green of the tomatillos will have dulled throughout).
Step 2
- Transfer into a food processor or blender. Add the cilantro, and purée to a smooth consistency. Add the crema and ¼ teaspoon salt, and blend until smooth. Taste, and add more salt if needed. Pour into a bowl, and set aside.
Corn Tortillas
Step 1
- Add the masa harina to a large bowl, and slowly add in the water while stirring with a wooden spoon. Knead until smooth (the dough should neither fall apart nor stick to your hand), adding more masa harina or water if necessary to achieve the correct consistency. Form into small balls, and press between two sheets of parchment in a tortilla press.
Step 2
- Cook on a hot griddle or cast-iron pan for 40-60 seconds per side, and set aside in a tortilla warmer or wrapped in a clean tea towel until ready to use. (They do not keep well, so do not cook more than a few hours ahead of time.)
To make the enchiladas:
- Preheat your oven to 425°F (220°C), and coat the bottom of a heavy medium-size casserole dish with a layer of creamy salsa verde.
- Skip this step if you are making your own tortillas: Soften store-bought tortillas by brushing them lightly with vegetable oil and heating them in a very hot cast-iron skillet for about 30 seconds on each side. Let each tortilla rest until cool enough to handle, and fill it with about 2 tablespoons each shredded chicken and Chihuahua cheese. Roll each tightly, placing it seam-side down in the casserole dish.
- When all of the tortillas have been filled, pour the salsa verde over the enchiladas, and distribute the remaining Chihuahua cheese over the top. Bake for about 15 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling at the side and the cheese is browned in spots. If your cheese is not browning, just pop it under the broiler for 2-3 minutes, watching carefully to ensure it does not burn.
- Remove the enchiladas from the oven and drizzle with the crema. Sprinkle the Cotija cheese, iceberg lettuce, and pickled onions over the top. Serve immediately.
Beverage Pairing
By: Olivia
The various components of these enchiladas all sing when paired with a mildly oaked Chardonnay. A slight presence of oak gives a refreshing and acidic white wine a bit more structure and substance, which is needed for these enchiladas with flavors from cheesy and creamy to fresh and pickled. When I need a Chardonnay that fits the bill, I grab Eshcol from the Trefethen Family Vineyards.